Pertronix are successful because they cover more car, truck and tractor engines than any other make. They retain the stock advance for simplicity including the ability to fit more engines with fewer stock numbers since timing is performed by the stock mechanisms. If you mean Pertronix style ignitions (Compu-Fire is a Pertronix brand who offer both mechanical and electronic advance models) they are electronically quite reliable and were first used to replace points on pre-electronic ignition systems and famous air cooled VW upgrades. It doesn't fit motorcycles, early Boss Hoss V8s of course excepted. HEI is specifically a GM automotive ignition design though the module pinouts of the era permit Ford and Chrysler interchange (outside the distributor of course). the same reason why there's a constant debate over passive vs active pickups on guitars. I guess the whole thing boils down to what the user feels is most important. So in my eyes an HEI has the best of both worlds although I'm assuming you see it as a compromise on both accounts. try doing that with a VOES and ECM setup. As for the advance I can see if a mechanical one is or isn't working and can fix it or find a temporary workaround out on the side of the road.
FWIW, I have never had an HEI go bad despite running them on my race bikes and air cooled VWs for hundreds of thousands of miles.
#1996 1200 sportster chopper kit install#
The EI bikes don't get mechanical advances because that's what electronic ignitions are for and there is zero functional advantage to a mechanical advance with an electronic trigger over an electronic trigger with (often adjustable) electronic advance.IMO the simplicity of not having both a trigger and an ECM is why an HEI has an advantage, it connects straight to the coils just like points yet without the wear issues that points have and it's just as easy to pack a spare HEI and install it if necessary like a set of points. A wiring kit isn't expensive and makes life easier so assemble your own.
#1996 1200 sportster chopper kit how to#
Silicone dielectric grease is ideal for protecting blade fuse connections, plug/socket connections (like Harley alternator connections which are otherwise prone to oil intrusion and degradation), terminal studs and more.Ĭheck other Chop Cult wiring threads for posts on how to buy supplies, crimpers etc. ATO circuit breakers are made to the same connector standard. You can save a lot of bulk by running small fuses. This wikipedia piece explains the ATO fuse system and shows sizes. I suggest buying online for best selection. I prefer circuit breakers and won't run fuses on new installs, but you can have the best of both worlds with the blade style inline circuit breakers which drop in to fuse holders.
Glass fuses are delicate corrosion-prone shit. Inline fuses should of course be modern blade fuses. The EI bikes don't get mechanical advances because that's what electronic ignitions are for and there is zero functional advantage to a mechanical advance with an electronic trigger over an electronic trigger with (often adjustable) electronic advance. I'll run either but my kick only-bikes get points.
The point of running a mechanical advance (but with points) is easy roadside repair, ability to run at lower voltages than EI tolerates when limping home with electrical troubles, very fast troubleshooting, cheap replacement parts and they work very well with kickers. If it shits on the road, ya walk (or have a complete points setup in your road bag which is a fine idea no matter what ignition you run because unless a coil dies you will get home). The point of running an electronic ignition is to get rid of the advance mechanism and associated wear.
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